Bremont Supermarine S302 S302

Imagen: Bremont, web oficial

The storyWhy this reference matters

Bremont was founded in 2002 at Henley-on-Thames by two brothers, Nick and Giles English, sons of an RAF pilot and aeronautical engineer. In 1995 their father was killed and Nick badly hurt when the Second World War Harvard they were flying came down during a rehearsal for an air display. The company they built afterwards is soaked in that story. The Supermarine name comes from the firm that built the Spitfire and the S6B Schneider Trophy seaplane, and the first diver in the line landed in 2009.

The S302 turned up in 2021, the same year Bremont unveiled The Wing, its new factory. It was essentially the 2017 S301 with a second time zone bolted on: same 40 mm case at 13 mm tall, same 300 metres, screw-down crown, and that arrow-tipped twenty-four-hour hand outlined in orange, read against the scale on the rehaut. Inside sat the BE-93-2AV, a modified ETA 2892-A2 with a Glucydur balance, Anachron hairspring and Nivaflex mainspring, chronometer-certified to ISO 3159.

The second generation came in 2023 and changed the watch's character. Out went the sixty-minute dive bezel; in came a twenty-four-hour bezel in two-tone blue and green aluminium, with the reserve pushed up to fifty hours. There was a Jet version in black DLC and a grey limited edition as well. Then in April 2024, with Davide Cerrato running design, Bremont rebuilt the entire brand: new logo, a new 40 mm Supermarine in 904L steel, and a permanent goodbye to the Trip-Tick case.

SpecificationsThe numbers, in one table

IdentificationHow to tell it apart

The thing that identifies an S302 before anything else is the Trip-Tick case, Bremont's three-piece construction. Look at it in profile: the DLC-treated middle barrel is visibly darker than the lugs and the case back, and no other brand gives you that contrast. Screwed and decorated steel back, domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, 20 mm lugs.

To work out which generation you have in front of you, look at the bezel. The 2021 series runs black ceramic with a laser-engraved sixty-minute dive scale filled with Super-LumiNova. The 2023 runs aluminium with a two-colour twenty-four-hour scale, blue and green. Both share the 40 mm case and the orange arrow-tipped GMT hand.

On the 2021 version the twenty-four-hour scale lives on the inner rehaut rather than the bezel. Below the centre the dial reads SUPERMARINE and, in red, 300m - 980ft. Date at three. The round markers carry lume in an aged tone — chosen at the factory, not earned by the years — and the hands are satin-finished nickel.

CollectingWhat collectors check

This one is out of production. The only market is second-hand, and Bremont's own site lists it as retired, which means condition matters more here than it would on a watch you can still order. Start with the DLC barrel. The coating wears at the edges and wherever the case rubs, and once it is marked there is no repair short of remaking the part. Hold the middle section against the lugs and compare the tone.

The BE-93-2AV is an ETA 2892-A2 underneath, which is good practical news: any competent watchmaker can handle it, though the GMT module and the three-piece case want somebody who has opened one before. Ask for the chronometer certificate, then check the rate it actually keeps. The specification is -4/+6 seconds a day, and an example running outside that is telling you something.

On the 2021 pieces, go over the ceramic bezel, the outer edge and the triangle in particular, because ceramic chips. And put a value on completeness. Bremont supplied these with a vintage Sahara leather strap or a canvas NATO, with the steel bracelet a separate option. An S302 with its box, its papers and both original straps is in a different league from a bare one, now that the brand has changed direction entirely.

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